- by Joe Weber - updated on 12/12/2025
Snowmobile season is here, and the last thing any rider wants is to be stranded in the cold with a machine that won't start. As you prepare your Yamaha, Polaris, Ski-Doo, or Arctic Cat for another winter, your battery should be at the top of your checklist. Just like a car, your snowmobile is only as reliable as the battery that powers it. In this guide, we'll cover everything you need to know to pick the best battery for your snowmobile and how to maintain it for seasons to come.
A typical snowmobile battery will last between three and five years, but this depends heavily on proper maintenance. If your battery is older than three years, it's a good idea to have it tested before the season starts. You can test it yourself with a multimeter or bring it to a local battery shop. We can test it for you for free and let you know if it's healthy enough for another winter.
There are a few clear signs that your snowmobile battery is failing:
Snowmobiles use 12-volt powersport batteries, which are also common in motorcycles, ATVs, and jet skis. The physical size, or "group size," is critical for ensuring a proper fit.
You can find the correct battery size designation (e.g., "20L-BS") in your snowmobile's owner's manual. You can also find the right battery by looking up your snowmobile's brand (like Polaris, Ski-Doo, or Arctic Cat), model, and year.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCAs) measure a battery's ability to start an engine in cold temperatures. Specifically, it's the number of amps a 12-volt battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds while maintaining a voltage of at least 7.2 volts.
Since snowmobiles operate exclusively in the cold, a high CCA rating is essential for reliable starting. Always choose a battery that meets or exceeds the CCA rating recommended by your snowmobile's manufacturer. If you frequently ride in extreme cold, opting for a battery with an even higher CCA rating is a smart investment.
Once you know the size and CCA rating you need, you'll choose between two main snowmobile battery types: flooded lead-acid and AGM.
Lithium (LiFePO4) powersport batteries are, without a doubt, some of the most advanced and powerful batteries in the powersports world. They are incredibly lightweight (often 70% lighter than lead-acid), can last up to 5-10 times longer, and offer fantastic cranking power. For many applications, like motorcycles or ATVs, they are an amazing upgrade.
However, we do not recommend them for snowmobiles that are used or stored in sub-freezing temperatures due to one critical limitation: charging in the cold.
Because snowmobiles are exclusively operated and stored in cold environments, this charging limitation makes lithium batteries an impractical and risky choice. For reliable, worry-free performance in the cold, an AGM battery remains the superior and safer technology.
Proper snowmobile battery maintenance is the single most important thing you can do to ensure it starts all winter and lasts for years. The biggest enemy is letting a battery sit in a discharged state, which causes permanent damage called sulfation.
Here are the step-by-step instructions for keeping your battery in peak condition.
When you store your sled for the summer, follow these steps to prevent a dead battery next winter.
Make sure you are using a maintainer that works with your battery type (flooded, AGM, or Lithium). It will say on the box, the manual, or even the unit itself.
Before Your First Ride: Even if you used a maintainer, it's a good idea to check your battery's voltage with a multimeter. A healthy, fully charged battery should read around 12.6 - 12.8 volts.
During the Season: If you go several weeks without riding, your sled's onboard electronics can slowly drain the battery. It's a good idea to connect your battery maintainer for a day or two to top it off and keep it ready.
Don't let a dead battery ruin a perfect day on the trails. By choosing the right type of battery (like a high-performance AGM) and keeping it charged with a battery maintainer, you can ensure your sled starts reliably all winter.
If you're not sure about your battery's health or which replacement to buy, stop by your local Batteries Plus. Our experts can test your current battery for free and help you find the perfect new snowmobile battery and charger to match your machine and riding style.
A: An AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery is widely considered the best choice. It's maintenance-free, vibration-resistant, charges faster, and provides higher Cold Cranking Amps (CCAs) for reliable starting in cold weather compared to older flooded lead-acid batteries.
A: The best method is to remove the battery, store it in a cool/dry place off the floor, and connect it to a battery maintainer. This device provides a smart, low-amp charge to keep the battery fully charged and healthy during long periods of storage, preventing damage.
A: No. Car batteries are a completely different size and form factor. You must use a 12-volt powersport battery that matches the specific group size and terminal configuration required for your snowmobile.
A: Cold Cranking Amps (CCAs) are crucial because they measure the battery's ability to start your engine in freezing temperatures. A battery with a high CCA rating will provide the strong, reliable power needed to turn over a cold engine, which is exactly what a snowmobile needs.
A: It depends. Older, carbureted sleds can usually be pull-started. Most modern EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) sleds cannot. Even if you pull-start the engine, the EFI system, fuel pump, and computer need stable battery power to run.
A: Yes, they can. Your snowmobile's stator (charging system) produces limited power, especially at idle. If your accessories (heated grips, lights, etc.) use more power than the stator is making, your system will drain the battery to make up the difference. This is why a quality AGM battery is recommended.
A: A battery is "cold-soaked" when it has been sitting in freezing temperatures for so long (like overnight) that its internal core has reached the same low temperature as the outside air. This is the hardest possible condition for a start, as the extreme cold significantly reduces the battery's available power.